solo day revisiting Cuillin peaks

Sgurr na Banachdich and Sgurr Dearg


What changeable weather!  After the continuous low cloud of Wednesday, this morning I was greeted by a clear (although hazy) sky.  Perfect conditions for today's plans.  


All my previous encounters with the Cuillins had been with a group, usually including at least one more experienced person.  Today, the plan was to go on my own, but to hills that I knew were well within my capabilities, because I had been up both of them twice before.  In addition, I planned to be at the In Pinn in time to get some good photos of Winky, Pam, Tony and Andrew making their ascent.

Sgurr Dearg from my route up Sgurr na Banachdich

So, at 10am I set off from the Youth Hostel down the road to the Glen Brittle Hut, then turned up the path past the Eas Mor.   Above this impressive waterfall, I made good progress up into Coire na Banachdich. 


The plan was to get to the col, and head up to Sgurr na Banachdich by its south ridge. However, feeling a wee bit adventurous, I decided to take a rising traverse up an obvious line I could see slanting across the west face of Sgurr na Banachdich.  


I crossed the burn, and climbed upwards quite steeply on grass and rock to gain the start of my traverse.  This proved to be a broad sloping shelf of broken ground (right), with crags above and below, which led upwards with excellent views down to the coire below. 


Eventually, this led out on to Banachdich's west ridge, and I joined the more usual path coming up from Coir' an Eich at about 800m. 

Sgurr na Banachdich's west ridge, leading out to Sgurr nan Gobhar, just before I joined the main path

looking down Banachdich's south ridge toward Sgurr Dearg

By 12.30 I was on the Banachdich's summit (for the third time).  


I found a good spot right on the ridge crest just a few metres south of the summit to have a lunch with a view!


And what a view (left)!   Banachdich's south ridge below my feet;  Sgurr Dearg beyond, with the top of the In Pinn peeking over;  Sgurr Alasdair in the distance;  vertiginous drops down towards Loch Coruisk on my left!  All rock - hardly any vegetation anywhere.


As I was sitting virtually astride the ridge, some members of a group had to use my shoulder as a handhold as they made their way from the south ridge up towards the summit!  


After half an hour or so enjoying this airy perch, I set off carefully down the rocky ridge.

on Banachdich's south ridge

On a previous (misty day) we had by-passed the South Summit on its west side, and I decided today that "discretion was the better part of valour", especially as I was on my own - but that's a Munro top I may want to return to some day!


As I made my way on down the ridge (right), I stopped to chat to the lady of a couple I had met earlier down in the coire; lower down, I also spoke to her husband who was waiting for her.  They asked for a recommendation for a Cuillin guide, so I passed on Winky's contact details (who else?).


Soon I was down at a notch on the ridge and faced with a small rock step.  In fact it was the col, but I hadn't quite realised it, and instead of climbing up the rock step as I should, I headed down and round, which then meant a bit of a hairy ascent up a steep loose scree-covered slope to regain the proper path up Sgurr Dearg.   

climbers descending the In Pinn's west face, seen from Sgurr Dearg

Once back on track, the climb to the summit of Sgurr Dearg was straightforward, and I soon emerged opposite the In Pinn's west face at 2pm.  


I was expecting my friends to get there at about 2.30pm, so I sat and watched some groups abseiling down the west face (left). 


After enjoying this spectacle for a while, I decided it was time to head round to the other end of this bizarre blade of rock, so I carefully made my way down the sloping rocks below, and round to the foot of the east ridge ("tourist" route).

Classic view of the In Pinn from Sgurr Dearg - groups gathering at the foot of the east ridge, and one climber on the top.

I found a good vantage point on An Stac opposite the foot of the east ridge, and watched the sport from this viewpoint - groups of climbers making their way up the east ridge!


Busier that Selkirk High Street on a Saturday afternoon!  There was quite a queue at the foot of the ridge, with an average wait time of about 1 hour!


I realised how lucky we had been back in 2005 when Iain, Pete and I climbed it with Winky and Donna - the weather wasn't so good then, but that meant there was no queue - so no time for me to get nervous!


It was now 2.30pm, and right on cue, Winky, Pam, Tony and Andrew appeared up over An Stac behind me, having had an exhilarating scramble / climb up its east buttress.

They joined the "queue" at the foot of the East Ridge (right), and got themselves sorted out, ready for the ascent.


Eventually - after more than an hour's wait - their turn arrived.


Meanwhile, I remained on my comfy vantage point, drinking coffee and watching several groups heading upwards.

(left) First, Winky leads the way up the initial crack, showing where to step over on to the ridge proper, and then continues on up to the midway belay stance.

Tony, Pam and Andrew follow on.  


Here's Tony just on to the ridge proper, with Pam coming to the "step across", and Andrew following up behind.

And now the intrepid trio swarm up towards the belay point, where Winky is ensuring that they are safe.


It'll be a tight fit for 4 all on the tiny ledge at once!

... but they all do manage to squeeze onto the stance.  


Here's Winky heading off up the most exposed and steep section just above the stance, while the other 3 wait for her to give the "climb when you're ready" signal from the top.


Another pair are coming up from below - traffic management required!

... and soon they all arrive onto the easier final section - not so steep, not so exposed!


Just a walk to the top from here!




Meanwhile, I left my perch, and scrambled up the sloping slabs below the In Pinn's south face and back up to Sgurr Dearg, to watch the descent!

(below) Tony appears over the top, looking very pleased with himself!

And soon Pam and Andrew join him on the summit ledge.  

Now it's time to get ready for the abseil ..

Tony is first to go over the edge (right) ....


















... and Pam soon follows ....










... then Andrew, with a fine view of Sgurr Thearlaich, Sgurr Alasdair and the Great Stone Shoot (below)

Having just descended, Andrew surprised us by immediately setting off back up the hard way!  


This ascent was in memory of his mother, who had fallen off the In Pinn's west face as a young woman.  She had survived the fall, but had never climbed again.


Here he goes ... with us shouting encouragement and advice ... and very soon he was back up to the top!  


Well done, Andrew!

Andrew's route up the east face (left).




So, a great day had by all, and plenty to chat about as we headed off down Sgurr Dearg's west ridge, and back down to Glenbrittle YH at 7pm.






Then farewells to Winky, Tony, Pam and Andrew - and a hope that we might meet up again on some other summits before too long!

Sgurr Dearg (right) from Glenbrittle Youth Hostel

written 28/01/11  DB