The weather looked promising - blue skies overhead - a "round of Coire Lagan" the target. At 9.15am, we met up with Winky, Donna, and Pete McIntosh, another Inn Pin hopeful. All set off eagerly enough up the path into Coire Lagan. However, the blue sky soon disappeared, clouds rolled in, then light rain began to fall. Into Coire Lagan, we reviewed the situation: given the weather, we decided to give Sgurr Alasdair a miss for today, and head instead for Sgurr Mhic Choinnich via Collie's Ledge.
So, leaving the good path behind us at the lochan (above), we began the ascent of the Great Stone Chute (right). Hard going - for every step upwards, we seemed to slide back down half a step, as the scree moved beneath our feet. The main stone chute leads towards Sgurr Alasdair; about half-way up, we headed to the left and onto more secure footing, continuing upwards to Bealach Mhic Choinnich. Time for a pause, some food and drink, before roping up for the ascent of Collie's Ledge (below).
By now we were into ragged cloud, with the light rain turning to snow - the blue skies had long since departed.
The ledge was pretty simple scrambling, after the initial moves to get to its start from the bealach. The biggest hazard was the melting snowflakes washing sun tan lotion into our eyes! An absorbing half hour or so followed as we slanted across the mountain side, with steep drops into Coire Lagan below us to the left.
Collie's Ledge led us to the north ridge of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, not far below its summit, where a massive boulder provided a shelter before we pushed on up easily scrambled rocks (but with prodigious drops below) to the tiny rocky summit.
Apart from being my 182nd Munro, this peak had an interesting family link. The first recorded ascent was by Charles Pilkington, a member of the famous Lancashire glass-making family. An interesting digression is to read his report on this area in the SMC Journal of 1891, with an excellent old photo, showing Sgurr Mhic Choinnich on the right, and the Bealach immediately to its left. I'm not sure of the exact link, but the Chairman of Pilkington Glass from 1973 to 1985 was Sir Alistair (Lionel Alexander Bethune) Pilkington, so I guess Charles Pilkington must have been some sort of distant cousin?
Anyway, it was a top to savour - a tiny platform with near-vertical drops on three sides, and superb views across the bealach to Sgurr Thearlaich (pronounced "Cherlie" and named after the aforementioned Charles Pilkington) and to Sgurr Alasdair, now gloriously free of cloud (above). To the south, the view had opened up over Sgurr Dubh Mor, and to the north, An Stac and the Innacessible Pinnacle appeared out of the mist in dramatic fashion (left).
We could have stayed there all day, enjoying the sense of being on top of the world, but we had other business still to do, so it was back down the north ridge (above) to the top of Collie's Ledge, and on down to Bealach Coire Lagan.
The impending challenge of the Inn Pin was starting to loom large, and when Winky suggested climbing up and over An Stac, I reckoned that was stretching my nervous energy too far. So, instead we suffered our way up the greasy slabs and scree on its west side with drizzle in our faces. Maybe An Stac would heave been preferable!
However, at 3pm we found ourselves at the foot of the east ridge of the Inn Pin (right). The moment of truth had arrived!
We roped up - Winky leading, then Pete, then me, and Iain bringing up the rear (to catch me if I fell off), Donna bounded away up unroped - it's all relative!
Winky gave us our instructions - "follow me up the first gully until you get to the sharp edge, then step over it to the right, and carry on straight up until we reach the belay stance half-way up; keep the rope fairly tight between you, and move together" She didn't say whether I was allowed to keep my eyes shut or not!
Getting ready at the start of the ascent (right)
In fact it was great fun, so long as I didn't stop to think about where I was, or the huge drops to both left and right!
Iain and Pete were confident enough to take a few photos en route (see below) - I was too busy clinging on to the rock!
Pete (green) and me (red) coming up the initial pitch. The first bit is steep but not too exposed.
We continued up this section, until the crack we were climbing merged with the vertical south face (above right). Then a bold step across to the right onto the Coruisk face. Here the hand and foot holds were smooth and unconvincing, so we swarmed our way up, until we reached the half way belay.
here we are at the belay point half way up - not much space for 3 people. Winky and Pete smiling - David looking worried!
There's one comfy seat - with a hundred foot drop at your back, and a 500 ft drop below your feet.
"Help - what am I doing here?"
"Oh yes, and what about that practice abseil? Too late now!"
Winky left the three of us secured to the belay, while she headed off up the second half of the ridge. Soon she was secure up above us, and we continued upward - less steep now, but narrowing in to a proper ridge, with steep drops on either side (left and below).
Soon the top was in sight, and I HAD DONE IT! Munro 183 - still 101 to go, but all now achievable!
Hand up to touch the highest point, then sit down to enjoy the position - a small slightly sloping area, with some grass, and near vertical drops all around.
(left) on the summit - with the top of Sgurr Dearg in the background.
No time to hang about, though. Others might be following us up, so it was time to get ourselves down. Winky's psychology was perfect - if I had tried a practice abseil, I might have bottled out, but now I had no choice: abseil down, or stay here for ever!
Pete went first, then I followed:
"Ooh! - its a long way down ..."
"Just relax your left hand a bit ... on you go!"
"Hey, this is fun!"
Iain followed, then Winky ...
Was I up there 5 minutes ago?
Handshakes and thanks all round, then a quick descent back to Glenbrittle.
Mission accomplished!
(written 24/01/10)
PS thanks to Iain and Pete for some of the photos
(below) evening glow on Sgurr Dearg, with the top of the Inn PInn just peeking over ..
I actually really enjoyed the In Pinn - but I was on my own on the rope which is much better - I also had rock boots on which are far nicer than climbing boots for actual climbing! Hated Sgurr Mhic Choinnich though - it's the one peak I hope to never go near again! Terrifying!
ReplyDeleteCarol.