Cuillins with Winky (part 3a)

So, mission accomplished!  The hardest Munro climbed.  Only 101 to go, and all within my grasp.  Aha - but what about Am Basteir - didn't we get stuck there 2 years ago, and had to retreat?

"Meet me at Sligachan tomorrow at 9am" were Winky's parting words:  Am Basteir (plus Bruach na Frithe and Sgurr nan Gillean) here we come!


So, next morning Iain, Pete and I met Winky;   blue sky around, but clouds gathered on the tops:


We set off at a good pace up the path across the moor, beside the Allt Dearg Beag, continuing straight on where the Sgurr nan GIllean path turned off to the south, then up the slabs beside the Basteir gorge.   

The pace soon slowed down as we slogged up the scree above Coire a'Bhasteir.  The previous two days had taken their toll!


Correction - my pace slowed down - the other 3 waited patiently for the old man as he toiled up the path (left)!


Anyway, we reached the bealach at midday, and discussed our route up the west ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean.  

We were to use the "tuning fork" chimney to the "tooth arete", as I had done back in 2003 (see blog).


"OK - I remember it being a bit scary, but I know I can do this!"  "Oh, yes, and we will descend the same way ..."  "Hmm, that might be trickier!"  Anyway, we set off along the ledge to the foot of the chimney, and were soon roped up, and making our way up.  


Here's Iain coming up the tuning fork ...

Next was the arete itself (site of the former "gendarme", which fell off a few years ago, making the route a bit easier, but leaving the "tooth arete" very exposed.  


As the Skye Scrambles SMC guide states, "Make some delicate moves in a very exposed position to pass the stub of the former tooth".  We did!


Here's Iain again (left), stepping across the arete itself - I was safely up already, but the slight camera shake tells a story!

And all safely arrived above the crux (Winky and Pete, right).

Oh ... not quite ...  that appears to be Iain's hand just appearing over the last bit ... is someone belaying him?

It gets easier from here, although still quite exposed and steep in places.


On up across the strange concrete-like section of rock, and then through the "window" (right).


A few more metres easy scrambling, and we were on the summit - a tiny platform, with great views all around (below).


My third time here:


1981, with Anne (by the "tourist" route)


2003, with John, Donald and Tim (ascent by the West Ridge, descent by the "tourist route"


and now, once again by the West Ridge.

1pm, and time to head back down the ridge.   


Soon we wer back down to the crux.  


Winky decided I should go first, so ... deep breath ... then lower myself over the edge ... good, found the foothold  ..... step down to the ledge ... turn around .... edge towrds the arete  ... bold step across   ... hands onto the other side ... work way round the block ... safety!    




And here's Pete starting his descent (right) ...


Then back down the "tuning fork", round the ledge, and back to the bealach at the foot of the east ridge of Am Basteir.

Am Basteir (right),  Sgurr a' Fionn Choire (left) and Bruach na Frithe (centre behind) from the west ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean.

This rough ridge was our next challenge ....

continued on next blog post

written 310/01/10