Beinn Tarsuinn, Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair and Sgurr Ban 3rd June 2011
Yesterday had been a 10 hour day for only one Munro, and had left me feeling pretty tired. Was I up to another big day with 3 Munros and 2 tops? These were the questions going through my mind as I woke early in the car park at Kinlochewe. At least the weather was looking good ...
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| Base Camp - Kinlochewe car park! |
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| Beinn Eighe - a dramatic backdrop above Kinlochewe |
After an initial start up the wrong road (!), I set off by bike at 8.20am, and made good speed along the excellent farm road on the north bank of the Abhainn Bruachaig, towards Heights of Kinlochewe.
On the way, I passed a young couple heading in the same direction (later referred to as "the greyhounds" by another group I met on the hill!). The first significant obstacle appeared after 5km, when the bike had to be manhandled up over a high ladder stile. The track continued now, uphill, for another 3km up Gleinn na Muice. Most of this required pushing the bike, but I knew it would be worthwhile for the return journey.
At the top of the track, a confusing sign indicated 2 footpaths - but with arrows pointing in the wrong directions! Someone had helpfully scrawled "consult your map" on the sign! I followed the excellent, newly rebuilt path heading towards the mountains. Directly ahead lay all my target hills (except Sgurr Ban, hidden behind the Mullach) ...
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| L to R: Beinn Tarsuinn, Meall Garbh, Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair, east top and Sgurr Dubh |
To the left, Slioch ("the spear") rose steeply above the moor, looking more like its name from this less often viewed direction.
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| Slioch, from the east, with Sgurr an Thuill Bhan the prominent spear-like peak on the right |
A couple of miles up the path, Lochan Fada came into view (and I was overtaken by "the greyhounds" - the benefit of having young legs!)
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| view along Lochan Fada, with Beinn Lair on the left |
Just before the main path dropped down to the shores of the loch, I struck off to the right on a small path heading roughly towards my hill. Unfortunately this path soon petered out (it might have been better to continue down to the shore and find a better path from there), but the way ahead was fairly easy going across gradually rising moorland towards Meall Garbh.
The slope gradually steepened as I toiled upwards keeping to the right hand side of a prominent ravine coming down below Bealach Odhar. Crossing the burn above the ravine, I made my way up a series of sandstone layers on the left, and then more steeply up grassy slopes to join the path leading up to the summit of Beinn Tarsuinn ("the transverse mountain"). The "greyhounds" scurried past on their way down!
4 hours after leaving Kinlochewe, I arrived on the dramatic summit of Beinn Tarsuinn. The approach had been up mainly grassy slopes; in contrast, the north side of the mountain was composed of sandstone cliffs dropping away to the top of (another) Gleann na Muice.
After taking in the panoramic view, I "cooried doon" in a wee hollow behind the cairn to eat my sandwiches, and to get out of the strong breeze blowing in from the west.
After a chat with another group of walkers, I set off back down the east ridge towards the Bealach Odhar - nice to be going downhill for a while!
Meall Garbh ("rough lump") sits between Beinn Tarsuinn and the Mullach, but fortunately there is a handy little by-pass path skirting under the cliffs on the north side. Once at the next bealach, the climb to the summit of Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair was easier and shorter than it had looked earlier. The 250m climb was initially up through sandstone outcrops, then on quartzite boulders, so there was plenty to think about, using hands and feet and walking pole to progress. Soon enough, the slope eased, and the huge summit cairn was just ahead around the final curve of the ridge above shattered cliffs.
Only 5 to go! Stopped for a while to chat with a "cheery trio". It turned out than one of the three was on her 4th last Munro - so just one ahead of me - and planned to continue over Sgurr Ban and Beinn a' Chlaidheimh - leaving just two more - oddly enough, Beinn Bhuidhe and Meall Buidhe ("yellow hill" and "yellow hill"!) I wonder which of us will "compleat" first?
Now it was time to pay for yesterday's decision - out and back to Sgurr Ban. I scampered off down the steep path, leaving the "cheery trio" to descend more slowly. In places it was possible to leave a footprint in the dry white quartzite sand on the path - almost like beach sand. The next bealach was at 820m, so quickly reached, especially slithering down the last steep section of path on very loose scree.
The ascent to Sgurr Ban didn't take long - only 160m of ascent - then a walk across the huge level summit plateau to the cairn. Again I was glad of the shelter from the strong westerly breeze, while I refuelled with food and coffee.
Well, that was the last Munro of the day, but I still had to return over the Mullach (unfortunately), then take in its two outlying tops on my way "home".
Once again, the re-ascent wasn't as bad as it looked, and probably vindicated yesterday's decision. As I'm not intending to complete a "second round", I cut off from the path below the summit, and contoured across (over some massive boulders) to gain the east ridge. The east top was only 500m away, with a re-ascent of only 20m, so hardly deserved its "top" status. However, it was a good place of another short rest, and gave good views across to Sgurr Ban (below).
Ahead lay one more top, Sgurr Dubh, reached along a narrowish ridge with "easy scrambling" according to the guide books. From the east top, it certainly looked inviting!
First a straightforward descent to the next bealach, Cab a Choire Ghuirm ("notch of the blue coire"), followed by a very "interesting" scramble up a rocky ridge, then over and round a couple of pinnacles to reach the top. A faint path showed the best way, mainly keeping to the right side, but plenty of "hands on rock" was required to progress safely. I was acutely aware that there was no-one else around to pick up the pieces if I made a mistake.
Anyway, there were no mishaps, and soon I was safely on the top of Sgurr Dubh. So, a "white peak" and a "black peak" only a mile apart! I continued to the next little bump on the ridge, and sat down to enjoy the view. Minutes later, I was surprised to see two walkers appearing up the east ridge, having come up over the Sgurr Ban slabs from Loch an Nid.
By now it was nearly 5pm, and I was still far from base, so began the descent down the easy southern slopes of Sgurr Dubh, following a line of crags (below) down to around 700m, where a way could be made down through the crags into Coire Mhic Fhearchair.
Once across the burn flowing out of the coire, it was possible to contour easily across a wide gently sloping grassy area to reach the foot of another parallel line of crags, Creag Ghlas Bheag. Beyond this, the moorland sloped down towards Lochan Fada, and the main path home.
All that remained was the 2 mile walk back to the bike (it seemed a good deal further on weary legs!), then a fine downhill trundle to Heights of Kinlochewe, over the ladder stile, and a fast cycle back down the valley to Kinlochewe.
A great expedition!
written 13/06/11
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| view across Lochan Fada to its outflow down Gleann Bianasdail |
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| the Mullach from just above Bealach Odhar on my way up Beinn Tarsuinn |
4 hours after leaving Kinlochewe, I arrived on the dramatic summit of Beinn Tarsuinn. The approach had been up mainly grassy slopes; in contrast, the north side of the mountain was composed of sandstone cliffs dropping away to the top of (another) Gleann na Muice.
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| from the summit, looking down to "the table" on Beinn Tarsuinn's west ridge |
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| from Beinn Tarsuinn, Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair looked dauntingly massive |
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| looking north from Beinn Tarsuinn's summit |
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| a fine spot for a bit of lunch! - 6 Munros to go ... |
Meall Garbh ("rough lump") sits between Beinn Tarsuinn and the Mullach, but fortunately there is a handy little by-pass path skirting under the cliffs on the north side. Once at the next bealach, the climb to the summit of Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair was easier and shorter than it had looked earlier. The 250m climb was initially up through sandstone outcrops, then on quartzite boulders, so there was plenty to think about, using hands and feet and walking pole to progress. Soon enough, the slope eased, and the huge summit cairn was just ahead around the final curve of the ridge above shattered cliffs.
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| approaching the summit of Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair, with Sgurr Ban beyond |
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| On Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair - 5 to go - Beinn Tarsuinn in the background |
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| looking back to Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair from Sgurr Ban - scree path clearly visible |
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| Sgurr Ban's amazing stony summit plateau - looking from the cairn towards An Teallach |
Once again, the re-ascent wasn't as bad as it looked, and probably vindicated yesterday's decision. As I'm not intending to complete a "second round", I cut off from the path below the summit, and contoured across (over some massive boulders) to gain the east ridge. The east top was only 500m away, with a re-ascent of only 20m, so hardly deserved its "top" status. However, it was a good place of another short rest, and gave good views across to Sgurr Ban (below).
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| well seen why it is called Sgurr Ban ("the white peak") |
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| Sgurr Dubh from the east top |
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| looking back over the scrambly section of Sgurr Dubh - Beinn Tarsuinn behind |
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| from Sgurr Dubh, looking down over the Sgurr Ban slabs to Loch an Nid |
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| looking back up from Coire Mhic Fhearchair to Sgurr Dubh, from just below the line of crags |
All that remained was the 2 mile walk back to the bike (it seemed a good deal further on weary legs!), then a fine downhill trundle to Heights of Kinlochewe, over the ladder stile, and a fast cycle back down the valley to Kinlochewe.
A great expedition!
Summary:
3 Munros + 2 tops
19 km walk + 16 km cycle
1600 m climb
11.5 hours
Log:
left car | 08:20 | |
left bike | 09:25 | |
Lochan Fada | 10:30 | |
Beinn Tarsuinn (M) | 12:20 - 12:40 | |
Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair (M) | 13:45 - 14:00 | |
Sgurr Ban (M) | 14:45 - 15:00 | |
MCMF east top (T) | 15:55 - 16:05 | |
Sgurr Dubh (T) | 16:30 - 16:55 | |
Lochan Fada | 18:00 - 18:05 | |
back to bike | 19:10 | |
Kinlochewe | 19:50 | |
written 13/06/11
Posts
Having done the pinnacles from both sides, which side would you say was easiest? I'm only worried about the actual pinnacles to the summit and I'll be walking alone too.
ReplyDeleteCarol / mountain coward