7 in a day: it can only be ...

The South Cluanie Ridge   (22nd July 2010)


After Sgurr Mor, we moved on up to Cannich in Glen Affric, but the weather turned wet and windy, so not worth venturing onto the hills.  Then we had to head home to (a) help Fiona move her belongings to her new flat in Stirling, (b) do some gardening, (c) sort out some Regeneration business, and (d) attend a Royal Society Computing at School meeting in London.  By the 21st, we were free again, and, as the weather forecast looked better in the west, we headed up to the Morvich campsite at the foot of Glen Shiel.

we found a dryish patch to pitch the tent at Morvich!

A fine couple of days were promised, so it had to be the South Cluanie ridge.  Anne was content to let me tackle this marathon alone, so she dropped me at the road end beyond the Cluanie Inn at 9am.

I was a little apprehensive as I set off down the road.  7 Munros in one day's walk....  Could I last the distance?  Should I have started earlier?  At least I knew that if I had to abort before the end of the ridge, it wasn't a long distance back to the road, and the weather looked perfect.


The walk up the old road made an easy start to the day, and reminded me of the day back in 1979 (I think?) when we drove up here from Inverness in Marjory's Fiat 126, sat in the car for an hour looking out at the wind and rain, then drove back again!


In contrast, today's weather was perfect!  I followed the road as far as the bridge over the Allt Ghiubhais, then headed off up a rather muddy path to a stile across the deer fence and onto the open hillside.  The path continued to wind its way up, with the view across  Loch Cluanie to the north Glen Shiel hills giving excuse for frequent rests!

looking across Loch Cluanie to Sgurr nan Conbhairean and Carn Ghluasaid

I continued up the west side of Coirean an Eich Bhric (the corrie of the speckled horse!), slanted across its headwall on a narrow sheep track, and reached the ridge 200m east of Creag a' Mhaim (947m).  Two hours from leaving the car, I was on the summit of the first Munro.  


Any doubts about my ascent route were dispelled when another walker appeared 10 minutes later, having left Cluanie 10 minutes before me, having followed the old road to the watershed, then come up the east ridge - a better path all the way, but longer and slower than the route I had followed.

looking west from Creag a'Mhaim to Druim Shionnaich and the distant cliffs of Aonach air Chrith

I enjoyed a 15 minute rest, a bite to eat and a cup of coffee while contemplating the wonderful view all around, including the way ahead along the ridge over Druim Shionnach towards Aonach air Chrith.  The further tops remained hidden frown view.

Spidian Mialach and Gleuoraich dominate the view to the south, with Sgurr Mor through the gap

The east end of the ridge was easy walking - gentle gradients, short grass underfoot (and, of course, fresh legs!).  I kept company with another walker for some of the way, and in half-an-hour was climbing the short rocky arete to the summit of Munro number 2, Druim Shionnach (987m), "the foxes' ridge".


Once again, time for a seat ...

sunglasses and bare legs on Druim Shionnach!

The views were constantly changing, both of the way ahead, and of the surrounding mountains and glens, with the Five Sisters of Kintail starting to dominate the view ahead.

The Five Sisters from Druim Shionnach

After the initial gentle grassy section, the ridge began to get more interesting beyond Druim Shionnach, with steep drops to the right into Coire an t-Slugain.  Still the ups and downs were fairly modest, over Druim Shionnach's West Top (the only Munro top on the ridge), and nowhere dropping below 868m between Creag a'Mhaim and Aonach air Chrith.

Aonach air Crith from Druim Shionnach

Another 50 minutes from Druim Shionnach to the top of Munro number 3, Aonach air Chrith (ridge of trembling) - today's highest point at 1021m.   12.45 - lunchtime!  I met up with another group of 4 walkers on the summit.  One had a Borders accent - and turned out to be my neighbour's daughter's boyfriend's father!   Small world.

looking north from Aonach air Chrith along Druim na Ciche to A' Chioch and Loch Cluanie beyond

looking back from Aonach air Chrith to Druim Shionnach and Creag a'Mhaim

We continued on more or less together - now in the heat of the day, but quite pleasant with a gentle breeze to keep us comfortable towards the next Munro and half-way point, Maol Chinn-Dearg.

westwards towards Maol Chinn-dearg from Aonach air Chrith

This next section was quite similar to the previous one, with continuous grassy slopes falling away an unbroken 600m on the left, and a series of craggy bites on the right, dropping into Coire na Eirechanach.  The path wound its way along between these, with great view on both sides.


To the south, Sgurr a' Mhaoraich was now the dominant hill.

Sgurr a' Mhaoraich, with Glen Quoich airport at its foot!

A short steep ascent led up to the top of Munro number 4: Maol Chinn-Dearg (bald red head).  The group of 4 were there just ahead of me, one sporting a "maol chinn-dearg" of his own - a reminder that we needed to renew our sun protection!   It was now 2pm, and everyone was happy to chat and lie out on the grassy summit for half and hour or so before gradually setting off on the second half of the ridge, now all visible ahead.  

From Chinn-Dearg, the ridge dropped steeply over a rocky outcrop (left), before continuing much as before, by-passing the minor bump of Sgurr Coire na Feinne on its south flank.  


A further drop to an 800m bealach means an ascent of 200m to the next Munro, Sgurr an Doire Leathain (peak of the broad oak thicket!);  in fact, this is the biggest re-ascent of the day, so no complaints!   


No sign of any oak thickets!


The summit lay 200m out to the north of the ridge on a spur, with a tiny lochan where it joins the main ridge.  

Sgurr an Doire Leathain from the lochan on the main ridge

The others were a little way ahead, so I had this summit to myself for 10 minutes, apart from some flying ants!   Again, an excellent viewpoint, especially looking north and west down Loch Duich.


To the south, Ben Nevis appeared over the shoulder of Gleouraich.

the main ridge (foreground), Gleouraich, and Ben Nevis (in the distance)

From here to the next Munro, Sgurr an Lochain, was an easy 1km down and up, along the grassy ridge, but with some impressively deep gullies dropping into Coire an Lochain.

the ridge continuing towards Sgurr an Lochain and beyond

(left) The lochan, in Coire an Lochain, below Sgurr an Lochain!  


Not the most imaginative of names for a mountain, but a superb peak nonetheless!


I sometimes think the locals must had a wee twinkle in their eyes as they gave the OS surveyors the names of the hills.  


The worst/best example is A' Bhuidheanach Bheag, east of Drumochter. The name means "the wee yellowish place", hardly the name for a mountain!  I can just imagine the conversation that took place down in the glen.   OS surveyor, pointing up towards the skyline, to local: "What's the name of that mountain?"  The local raises his eyes to the hills, but looks puzzled ...  "You mean that wee yellowish bit up there?"  The OS surveyor dutifully notes this on his map ...


And, so, 30 minutes after leaving Sgurr an Doire Leathain (1010m), I was on the 6th Munro of the day, Sgurr an Lochain (1004m).  Not often you can climb a Munro in half-an-hour!  Its fine grassy top deserved a short stop - 10 minutes - before embarking on the final leg of the ridge.


Sgurr Beag (896m) was the next wee bump on the ridge.  The purist would insist on the 100m of ascent to include Sgurr Beag, but my now wearying legs yielded to the temptation of another by-pass path cutting across its southern slope. This also gave the chance of refilling my water bottle from a spring next to the path.


Once back on the ridge proper, the path led down a broad shoulder to the Bealach Fraoch Choire, complete with its own wee lochan, reflecting the still blue sky.

Ahead, the final Munro, Creag nan Damh, filled the view.   The line of the ridge was much less well-defined here, but a well-worn path led up the final weary 190m to its rocky summit.

Creag nan Damh from Bealach Fraoch Choire

And so, at 17.05, I stood on the final Munro - the 7th that day, and my 260th.  I had caught up again with some of the other walkers, and we spent 15 minutes chatting and enjoying our achievement.


All that was left now was to make our way back down to the road.  Two routes looked feasible - the shorter one over Sgurr a'Chuillin - or the longer one down the Allt Mhalagain.  We chose the latter, enticed by the prospect of an excellent stalkers' path. I texted Anne to let her know I would be at the roadside at Malagain Bridge in about 2 hours.  


So we continued on along the ridge for 2km, gradually descending over some rocky steps to reach the Bealach Duibh Leac at 730m.    This was the first time below 750m since before the summit of Creag a Mhaim, 7 hours earlier and 14km back.  In between lay 7 Munros and a Munro top - a superb high level traverse.


From the bealach, we made a steep and rough descent over broken ground before picking up the path beside a lochan at 600m.  The path descended by a number of wide zig-zags, to cross the burn at 370m, then descended steadily down the glen (left).  


Aware of my promise to be down in two hours, I pressed on downwards at speed, leaving the others behind, and reached the roadside at Malagain Bridge at 7.15pm.


No car waiting!   For some reason, the text hadn't arrived, but a quick phone call soon brought Anne from where she had been waiting a mile or so up the road.


A fantastic day!

Summary:

7 Munros + 1 top

23 km walk

1600 m climb

10 hours 15 mins

Log:

left Cluanie                  09:00

Creag a' Mhaim             11:00 - 11:15

Druim Shionnaich          11:45 - 11:55
Aonach air Crith           12:45 - 13:05
Maol Chinn-Dearg         14:00 - 14:30
Sgurr Doire Leathainn   15:15 - 15:25
Sgurr an Lochain           15:55 - 16:05
Creag nan Damh           17:05 - 17:20
return to A87               19:15

written 03/03/11  D. Bethune