44: Unexpected difficulties in Glencoe

Sgor na h-Ulaidh     6th August 2009


A changeable day - should we climb or not?  Still undecided, we drove round to the Glencoe visitor centre, and had a wander round the exhibitions and nature trail.  About 11am, the cloud showed signs of lifting off the tops, so we drove a short distance along the A82 and parked in a layby near the start of the way up to Sgor na h-Ulaidh) peak of treasure), my final Glencoe Munro.  I had climbed all the others 30 years earlier, from SU camps in Glen Etive.  Somehow, this one had been missed.

Aonach Eagach

We had fine views across to the Aonach Eagach (notched ridge) on the north side of the glen, but our target today was a more modest one, Glencoe's easiest(?) Munro, hidden behind Bidean up a little-frequented glen.  






The approach began easily up the tarred road towards Gleann-leac-na-muidhe house.  However, the owners clearly didn't like their privacy being invaded by walkers passing in front of their windows, so had set up a by-pass path, signposted round a boggy field, joining the track again beyond the house.  Access rights?  

approaching Sgor na h-Ulaidh

We followed the track for another mile or so, until it degenerated into a path alongside the burn.  The original plan had been to ascend Aonach Dubh a' Ghlinne, then on to Stob an Fhuarain (peak of the spring) and complete a clockwise circuit, but the path led us on up the valley towards the foot of Sgor na h-Ulaidh, so we decided to do the circuit in an anti-clockwise direction.  The path wasn't great, and we found it hard going - maybe tired legs after yesterday's walk in the Mamores.  We continued up grassy slopes to the right from the valley towards steeper ground leading towards the summit ridge.


The way ahead was up increasingly steep broken grass and rock slopes.  One guide book warned of a tricky descent, but it looked pretty straightforward.  We picked our way upwards, until we found ourselves on a steep section of greasy rocks and wet grass.  On a dry day, we would have negotiated this without a second thought, but today we suddenly found ourselves in unexpected uncertainties.


I tried up one way, until a few metres above Anne, then retreated - no secure holds, and everything damp and slimy.  Try again, more to the right.  Same result.  Felt quite shaken.  Maybe we should descend a bit, then make a detour further to the right.  No, this is ridiculous - there must be a way up - it's hardly even a scramble!  Third attempt, and this time we were up and through the tricky bit.  Almost defeated by 5 metres of greasy rock!  

view down summit gully

Above, the way to the summit was easy, with the slope easing until we reached the ridge (with views to the south), then a short ascent up the ridge to our left and on to the summit itself.  The clouds enveloped us as they swept in on a south west breeze.  


The summit itself was too windy for a comfortable rest, so after peering down a gully on the north side,  we found a sheltered nook a short way down the east ridge to eat a sandwich (3.20 - 3.40).  


The clouds swirled around us, giving tantalising glimpses in various directions.

Stob an Fhuarain from Sgor na h-Ulaidh

The clouds lifted again as we made the descent to the bealach below at 860m.  


An easy 100m ascent, passing a tiny lochan en route, and we were on top of Stob an Fhuarain at 4.20.  


The wind had dropped, and the sky was clearing, so time for another rest, cup of coffee etc before continuing along the broad undulating ridge of Aonach Dubh a'Ghlinne.

Sgor na h-Ulaidh from Stob an Fhuarain;  Anne at the tiny lochan

Looking back across to Sgor na h-Ulaidh, the "tricky but" looked completely innocuous - bizarre!

looking up the valley - descended down to long grassy slope to the left

Unfortunately, the pleasant stroll along the ridge had to come to an end as we had to face the 500m unrelenting, gruelling, grassy descent back to the path in the valley below.  


We were very glad to get back on to the track, then round the house by-pass, and back down to the car.  7pm.


1 Munro + 1 Top, 1100m ascent, 11km walk,  7.5 hours

(written 11/09/10)

46,45: Na Gruagaichean and Binnein Mor

More Mamores!   5th August 2009


After a week or so at home, and with the weather forecast looking a bit more settled, we headed north once again on Tuesday 4th August - this time aiming to "compleat" the Mamores.  

Caolasnacon camp site on Loch Leven

Where to camp?  The site at Glencoe village looked a bit up-market, so we drove on towards Kinlochleven, and stopped at Caolasnacon.  A lovely spot at the narrowest point of Loch Leven, looking across to the hills.  The grass was a bit muddy, the track down rough and rutted, and the facilities a bit basic, but we were won over by the beautiful location and view.  So... tent up!


Next morning, we were up at 8.30am, and drove round through Kinlochleven, then up the narrow road to Mamore Lodge, which looked rather bleak and forlorn.  Paid the parking fee(!), and set off up the track at 10am.  Nice to be starting at 200m above sea level.

view back to Kinlochleven from high on the zig zag path up Na Gruagaichean

Followed the track, then excellent stalkers' path up into Coire na Ba - surrounded by the steep slopes of Am Bodach to the left, Stob Coire a'Chairn ahead, and Na Gruagaichean to the right.  Soon, we struck up to the right on a poorer path, boggy at first, then improving higher up, which doubled back in a huge zig-zag up the western slopes of Na Gruagaichean. 

Am Bodach from the slopes of Na Gruagaichean

The view across the coire to Am Bodach's steep east face was most impressive.


The path ran horizontally for a while, then eventually steepened, and led out onto a windy bealach at 783m.  It didn't feel like August - more like November!


Superb views all around.

Ben Nevis and CMD behind An Gearanach and An Garbhanach
from the upper slopes of Na Gruagaichean

From the bealach we followed a steep path on loose rock and scree to Na Gruagaichean's NW top (12.45).   Along the short narrow windy ridge, we met a large group of Outward Bound students, struggling along with large packs.  


Passing them, we made the short steep 30m descent into the nick between the NW top and the main summit of Na Gruagaichean ("the maidens").


(right) looking back to the NW top from the nick (windy!) between the two summits


The wind was fierce and surprisingly cold on the broad main summit, so we descended towards Binnein Mor, down the east ridge, to find a sheltered spot for lunch (13.05 - 13.25). 

Binnein Mor (and south summit) from Na Gruagaichean's east ridge

A rocky descent led to the bealach at 950m, followed by an easy walk on grassy slopes over the south summit to Binnein Mor (14.30).  


We wobbled our way along Binnein Mor's summit, an arete of giant boulders, for the view down the north ridge to Binnein Beag.  Excellent views across upper Glen Nevis to Ben Nevis, the Aonachs and the Grey Corries.

Anne on the summit of Binnein Mor

Returning to the south summit, we continued south east to Sgor Eilde Beag, the last top of the day. 




(right) Sgurr Eilde Mor above the bizarrely shaped lochan, viewed from Sgor Eilde Beag 




Once again, we appreciated the superb network of engineered stalkers' paths which criss-cross the Mamores.  A series of evenly spaced zig-zags led us down to join the main path below, which led us south west towards Kinlochleven.  


Off the summits, the wind dropped, and the sun came out for the last hour or so as we followed the path, then track, back to the car at Mamore Lodge.


2 Munros + 3 Tops
13km walk
1150m ascent
8 hours